This is a report of our 6 day independent cycle ride of the Raid Alpine from Thonon, Lake Geneva to Antibes, Cote d’Azur that took place 13th – 18th July, 2007. While the majority of cyclists enter the Raid through tour organisers such as Graham Baxter’s Sporting Tours and French Cycling Holidays (riding road racing bikes and having their luggage transported for them), the information below is intended to be useful to those intending to tackle the ride without back-up.
In addition, we rode from Calais to the start point on Lake Geneva, a journey of 490 miles, taking 5 days and so I include some route information for cycling down to the start point.
This famous cycling challenge through the French and Italian Alps (a sister ride to the Raid Pyrenean) is promoted as a ride of 712km (445 miles), climbing 31 cols, totalling 17485m of ascent. The route takes in many notorious climbs, including the Col d’Izoard (2360m) and the two highest road points in Europe – the Col de l’Iseran (2764m) and the Col de la Bonette (2802m).
The Raid is administered by Cyclos Randonneurs Thononais. Carnets (route stamp cards) can be obtained by writing to:
M. Rossini Georges
530 toute de Publier
MORUEL
74200 MARIN
France
The current charge for entry is 6 Euros (I sent 15 Euros in bank notes for 2).
Regulations for the ride can be found at: http://www.chez.com/bikeevasion/alpes.htm (French page, advertising the route as 740km, 43 cols and 18187m ascent). The raid must be completed in 7 days.
Researching the route, I found that most package tours ride, for one section of the route, from Susa, Italy on the main road (SS24) straight to the Col de Montgenevre, back into France. This avoids what has been described as the optional Colle delle Finestre and Colle di Sestriere. The Colle di Sestriere is now an obligatory stamp point on the carnet and so you will find details of our mammoth climb of the Colle delle Finestre, including the unmade road section.
I wrote to M. Rossini to check whether we really had to go this way. He responded, saying that the route had changed in 2006 because of heavy lorry traffic on the main road and that the Colle delle Finestre was a beautiful ride through a forest that included 42 hairpin bends! The route change imposes a serious challenge and I had to re-plan all of the overnight objectives, aiming to stay one climb ahead of the typical package tour itinerary. However, sticking to the schedule below gives the satisfaction of climbing the Col de l’Iseran (from Bourg St-Maurice) and the Col du Vars in one go rather than breaking them up with over night stops as with a typical package tour.
To qualify for your Raid Alpine medal (current cost 22 Euros) you must get your carnet stamped at the following points:
Stamps (‘tampons’) can be obtained from most shops, bars or cafes.
We rode on fast touring bikes with pannier racks, carrying 2 panniers each and I had a handlebar bag.
As an independent trip, it’s worth taking clothes and equipment for every eventuality, especially bearing in mind the height of some of the climbs – base layers, wind/waterproof etc.
The Raid Alpine is a serious challenge, involving many long climbs of 2 – 3 hours, technical descents and long hours in the saddle. Many of the 6 days include 3 major climbs. It is advised to be of a good fitness level and to have your bike in good repair before starting. I have completed half Ironman triathlons, marathon and many long bike tours, including the Raid Pyrenean and, although I wouldn’t consider myself the fittest I’ve been, I found this to be the hardest challenge I’ve ever taken on.
The summer of 2007 has been a terrible year for the UK but also not good in France – the journey down to Geneva was marred by rain and when we arrived they had had 2 weeks of constant rain in the mountains. However, our Raid was rain-free and increasingly hot (31 – 35C) - the heat is big factor to be aware of so starting early is good way of avoiding too many hot climbs.
The high cols are generally expected to be open by the third week in June, although this year there was snow at Val d’Isere (1842m) in early July.
This was the 2nd time making this journey, choosing a different route except for the climb over the Jura Mountains to Nyon
A few years ago we went via Calais – Arras – Compiegne – Sezanne – Dijon – Champagnole - Nyon.
This time:
There are ferries across to Thonon or Yvoire from Nyon, but only a few will take bikes (CHF10.60 per person, CHF6 per bike). More details www.cgn.ch/
Some information for accommodation, eating and drinking based on our experience and observation:
Hotel:
Comte Rouge – 10 Boulevard du Canal (55 Euros + 11 for 2 breakfasts) –
simple but excellent and good value. Quiet. Early breakfast available. At the
back of town (and near the start point of the Raid), by the bus station. Run
by Joel and Dominque Potin (he’s a keen cyclist). Tel. 04 50 71 06 04
Restaurant:
le Bistro des Arts – 10 Place des Arts (round the corner from hotel) –
run by a couple who came to the lake last year to escape Paris. Very friendly
with excellent but small menu – pig’s trotter salad, local cheeses.
Complimentary brandy! Tel. 04 50 26 45 15 (Closed on Sundays).
A much nicer place to stay than Notre-Dame de Bellecombe. Placed nicely for
an early start up the Col de Pre and Cormet de Roselend.
Hotel:
Hostellerie du Doron** twin room and meal 96 Euros- excellent value –
across the river bridge in town. Again, very friendly and good meal. Tel. 04
79 38 33 18
A Bar in town.
You reach this village on the way down from the Iseran. It’s in a beautiful valley and surrounded by tall mountains. A downhill run to the start of the Col de Mont Cenis at Lanslevillard in the morning.
Hotel:
Hotel le Chamois* - Very good value 46 Euros for B&B (Cash only!) - Top
end of town, just off the main road. Tel. 04 79 05 94 87.
Restaurant:
La Bergamote – very popular. Menus at 24 Euros. Tel. 04 79 05 96 44
This small town/village has 2 or 3 restaurants. No bank.
It’s quite an experience staying at 2000m+ in an out-of-season Olympic ski resort. It’s Italy and hotels are not cheap.
Hotel:
Savoy Edelweiss*** (43 Euros each for a room with a bath)- expensive but 3 star
quality and a bath! Tel Italy 0122 77040. www.hotelsavoysestriere.com
Restaurant:
Across the main road. 55 Euros (cash) for 2, including a generous round of grappa
tasting.
A tiny place downhill from the Col de Vars. I had hoped to make Jausier but an early end to the day was welcome, leaving a few ‘warm up’ miles to get to the start of the Bonette.
Hotel:
Hotel du Midi – twin room, meal and breakfast 105 Euros for 2 (cards taken)
– budget value. This was a ‘demi-pension’ arrangement and
felt like stepping back in time to holidaying in the 1950s. The meal is the
meal on offer – no menu, but was very acceptable. Breakfast is a typical
round of gum-lacerating bread and jam.
A small town in the Mercantour National Park with amenities such as a baker, shops, bars, restaurants and some hotels but no bank. A lovely place to stay at 1450m and the morning starts with a fantastic 13 mile descent through the Gorge du Cians to Puget Theniers.
Hotel:
L’Esplanade – room and meal rather expensive (but excellent local
cuisine) and no early breakfast (the hotel opens at 8am so pay the night before
if you want to leave earlier). Tel 04 93 02 31 27 hotel-escapade@wanadoo.fr
We had a night cap and breakfast at the Relais de Bellevue** across the road
run by a very accommodating Englishman, Trevor – poached eggs and sausage.
He’s run a hotel at l’Alpe d’Huez and so is used to cyclists
needs. I would recommend this as the place to stay in Beuil. Tel. 04 93 02 30
04 www.beuil.com/bellevue
Our one star hotel not recommended, but the cheaper places are up the hill away from the beach near the train station.
It appears that most British cyclists opt to start at Thonon. Without having ridden the route the other way, I would say that this is the more satisfying but harder direction to tackle the Raid Alpine:
Harder:
More satisfying:
Our climbing speeds were pretty slow, often between 4-5.8mph – testament
to the steeper gradients than that experienced often on the Raid Pyrenean, but
also climbing with a desire to conserve energy and strength for such a long
ride and being wary of the heat. Bottom gear on the granny ring was much required.
Climb times include stops for water, photos, insect repellent etc, etc.
Our diary is on the following four pages...
(comming soon)